Wick

Wick doesn’t try to charm you. It’s not that kind of town. But underneath the grey Caithness stone and the practical high street is a place with one of the most extraordinary industrial histories in Scotland. In the 1800s, this was the herring capital of Europe. Thousands of boats, millions of barrels of fish, money pouring in. The harbour was so packed you could supposedly walk across it on boat decks. That boom went bust, but the bones of it are everywhere.

What to See

Wick Heritage Museum is the kind of place you pop into for twenty minutes and emerge two hours later. It’s run by volunteers who really know their stuff, spread across a complex of restored buildings near the harbour. The Johnston photographic collection — thousands of glass plate negatives — is nationally significant. Real life, captured in silver.

The Old Pulteney Distillery is the most northerly distillery on the Scottish mainland. Right in the town centre, not out on some industrial estate. The whisky has a maritime character — salty, slightly oily — that divides people. Tours run regularly with a tasting at the end. Book ahead in summer.

South of town, the Whaligoe Steps are 330 hand-cut steps descending a vertical cliff to a tiny natural harbour. Fishwives used to carry creels of herring up these steps on their backs. Let that sink in while you’re gripping the handrail. The steps are steep and can be slippery — wear proper shoes and don’t attempt them in wet weather.

North of town, walk out to Noss Head lighthouse past the ruins of Castle Sinclair Girnigoe. The castle is a spectacular ruin on a cliff edge, and the coastal views are immense.

Where to Eat

The Bord de l’Eau bistro is surprisingly good for a town this far north. The Waterfront does solid fish and chips. Captain’s Galley was the star restaurant for years — check if it’s still running.

Getting There & Parking

On the A99, about 17 miles south of John o’ Groats. Plenty of free parking around the town centre. Wick has supermarkets, fuel, and a hospital — it’s the last proper town before the north coast.

Insider Tips

Fill your tank here. Once you round the corner past John o’ Groats onto the north coast, fuel stations become rare and expensive. Stock up on food too — the Tesco here is the last big supermarket until Thurso.

The Whaligoe Steps are signposted off the A99 south of Wick, but easy to miss. Look for a small brown sign. There’s a little cafe at the top that opens seasonally. Go early morning for the best light and to avoid other visitors on the narrow steps.