Applecross

Applecross is the NC500’s final act, and it nails the landing. You arrive either by the terrifying, exhilarating Bealach na Ba — Britain’s highest road pass — or the gentler coast road from Shieldaig. Either way, you end up in a sheltered bay facing Raasay and Skye, eating langoustines at one of Scotland’s best-loved pubs. It’s a hard combination to beat.

The Bealach na Ba

The pass climbs to 626 metres through a series of Alpine hairpin bends. Gradients hit 20%. The road is single-track and exposed. There are no barriers on the mountain side. Caravans and large motorhomes should not attempt it — the signs say this and they mean it. In winter it’s often closed by snow.

But on a clear day? The drive up is one of the great motoring experiences in Europe. The summit viewpoint looks out across the Inner Sound to Skye, the Outer Hebrides, and what feels like the entire west coast. Take it slowly, use the passing places, and stop at the top to let your heartrate return to normal.

The alternative route from the north, via the coast road from Shieldaig, is less dramatic but beautiful in its own way. Single-track, winding through scattered townships along the shore. Plan for it to take longer than you expect.

What to See

Applecross Bay has a lovely sandy beach, safe for paddling, with seals bobbing about in the shallows and otters if you’re patient and lucky. The old monastery site where St Maelrubha founded a community in 673 AD is marked by a cross-slab in the churchyard. This was one of the earliest Christian sites in Scotland — as remote then as it feels now.

The peninsula roads running north and south from the village are narrow, slow, and spectacular. Scattered crofting townships, rocky coastline, views everywhere. Give yourself time to wander.

Where to Eat

The Applecross Inn has a national reputation and it’s fully deserved. The prawns and crab are landed locally, the fish and chips are excellent, and on a summer evening, sitting outside with a pint watching the sun set over Skye is one of the best moments you’ll have in Scotland. Book for dinner. Seriously. In summer they’re packed from 6pm and don’t take walk-ins easily.

The Walled Garden does good daytime food — lighter, more cafe-style. The Potting Shed (check it’s running) was the more upmarket option.

Getting There & Parking

Via the Bealach na Ba from the east (off the A896) or the coast road from Shieldaig to the north. Small car park in the village that fills up fast. The inn has limited parking. Applecross has a small shop and a fuel pump — both limited, so come prepared.

Insider Tips

Stay the night if you can. Applecross after the day trippers leave is a different place — quiet, intimate, and the evening light on the water is extraordinary. The campsite on the beach is basic but the location is unbeatable.

If the Bealach na Ba is fogged in (common), don’t be a hero. Take the coast road instead and come back to try the pass another time. The view from the summit is the whole point, and doing it in zero visibility is just stressful driving with none of the payoff.

After Applecross, you’re on the home stretch back to Inverness. The loop is nearly complete. The A896 drops you back to the A87 at Loch Carron, then it’s east through Glen Carron and south of the Moray Firth back to where you started. Allow about three hours. You’ll spend most of it thinking about when you can do the whole thing again.