Thurso

Thurso is a proper town. Not a pretty village, not a scenic hamlet — a working town with supermarkets, banks, fuel stations, and a chippy. After days of single-track roads and hoping the next petrol pump exists, Thurso feels like civilisation. It’s also, improbably, one of Europe’s premier cold-water surfing destinations.

What to See

The surf break at Thurso East is world-class. A right-hand reef break that produces fast, hollow waves when a north swell hits. International competitions have been held here. Even if you don’t surf, watching locals charge overhead barrels in 5mm wetsuits is entertaining. Several local operators offer lessons and hire if you fancy a go — be warned, the water temperature will recalibrate your concept of cold.

The Castle of Mey, six miles east, was the Queen Mother’s Scottish retreat. She bought it derelict in 1952 and spent decades doing it up. The interiors are preserved exactly as she left them — family photos, wellies by the door, that sort of thing. It’s surprisingly intimate and not at all stuffy. The walled garden is lovely. Open May to September.

The ruins of St Peter’s Church in the town centre date from the medieval period. Peaceful graveyard, right by the river. The Heritage Museum on the High Street covers the flagstone industry that once exported Caithness stone worldwide.

Where to Eat

The Holborn Hotel is a proper local pub — good food, decent beer selection, frequented by surfers. The Captain’s Galley in Scrabster was legendary for seafood (check if it’s still running under new ownership). Forss House Hotel, a few miles west, does an excellent dinner if you want to push the boat out. The Central Cafe does reliable fish and chips.

Getting There & Parking

Junction of the A9 and A836. Plenty of parking. Scrabster, two miles away, has the car ferry to Stromness in Orkney — book well ahead if you’re taking the car across.

Insider Tips

Fill your tank and hit the supermarket. Seriously. Heading west from here along the north coast, the next proper fuel station is Tongue or Durness, and both charge a premium. The Lidl and Co-op in Thurso are your last chance for normal prices on groceries.

The drive west from Thurso along the A836 to Bettyhill is where the NC500 starts to get properly wild. The road narrows, the traffic thins, and the landscape opens up into something vast and empty. This is the transition point. Everything changes from here.