Best Food and Drink on the NC500
Where to eat, drink, and refuel on the North Coast 500 — the seafood shacks, Highland pubs, bakeries, and distilleries worth stopping for.
A Foodie Road Trip
The NC500 isn’t just scenery. The food up here has quietly become one of the best reasons to do the drive.
You’re talking about langoustines that were in the sea that morning, venison from estates you can see from the road, pies made by people who’ve been perfecting the recipe for decades, and whisky distilled from water running off the mountains beside you. None of it is pretentious. Most of it is served in places where you’ll be wearing hiking boots and a fleece, and nobody cares.
The trick is knowing where to stop, because between the gems there are long stretches of nothing. Here’s what’s worth pulling over for.
Seafood
The west and north coasts produce some of the best shellfish in Europe. Seriously. Restaurants in London and Paris pay a fortune for langoustines and scallops from these waters, but up here you can eat them for a fraction of the price, hours out of the sea.
Lochinver Larder IG is the one everyone talks about, and rightly so. Their pies are exceptional. Not just the fish pie, but the venison and the steak. Grab one to eat at a viewpoint with a flask of tea. That’s an NC500 lunch sorted.
The Seafood Shack in Ullapool IG operates from a converted shipping container by the harbour and serves whatever the boats brought in that day. Langoustines, crab, fish. Simple, fresh, no fuss. There’s usually a queue in summer. It’s worth the wait.
Kylesku Hotel IG overlooks Loch Glencoul near one of the most remote bridges on the route. The mussels, scallops, and oysters come from boats you can probably see from your table. The setting alone makes it special.
Applecross Inn IG needs no introduction if you’ve done any research on the NC500. King prawns in garlic butter, hand-dived scallops, and a view across the bay to Skye. Book ahead in summer because this place fills up fast and there’s nowhere else in Applecross to eat dinner.
Captain’s Galley in Scrabster IG is a proper sit-down seafood restaurant near Thurso. The chef sources directly from the harbour next door and the menu changes daily based on the catch. No chips, no deep-frier. Just beautifully cooked fish. It’s the kind of place that surprises people who weren’t expecting fine dining this far north.
Cafes and Bakeries
You’ll need them. Some of these drives are long, the weather can be grim, and a good coffee and a slice of cake at the right moment can save the day.
Cocoa Mountain in Durness IG is genuinely one of the strangest and best things on the NC500. An artisan chocolate shop and cafe in one of the most remote villages in mainland Britain. Their hot chocolate is ridiculous. Thick, rich, and made with their own chocolate. The truffles make brilliant souvenirs too.
The Shorehouse in Tarbet (near Scourie) does excellent coffee and homebaking with views over a tiny harbour. It’s the kind of place you stumble on and remember for years.
Mountain Coffee Company in Gairloch IG is where half the hikers and surfers in Wester Ross seem to end up. Good coffee, generous food, friendly staff.
Storehouse of Foulis near Dingwall is a farm shop and cafe that’s perfect for the start or end of the route. Outstanding baking (the scones are massive) and a proper lunch menu with locally sourced everything.
Don’t underestimate the B&B breakfasts either. A full Scottish (black pudding, haggis, eggs, bacon, and tattie scones) sets you up for an entire day of driving. Most places along the route do it well.
Pubs
Highland pubs aren’t gastropubs trying to impress food critics. They’re places where locals actually drink, the fire’s usually lit, and you might catch some live music on a Saturday night.
The Arch Inn in Ullapool IG has been the town’s social hub for years. Live music several nights a week, a solid range of Scottish ales, and the kind of atmosphere you can’t manufacture.
The Anderson in Fortrose IG is more polished. A well-regarded gastropub with rooms, near the start or end of the route depending on your direction. Good food, good wine list.
Ben Loyal Hotel in Tongue IG does hearty pub grub in a village that feels like the end of the earth (in the best way). Local ales, venison burgers, and zero pretension.
The Old Inn at Gairloch IG is a proper Highland pub. Open fire, real ales, and a menu built around local seafood and game. Sit in the garden on a summer evening and you’ll wonder why you ever eat anywhere else.
Applecross Inn IG again, because it’s both a great restaurant and a great pub. The bar side is lively, the locals are welcoming, and it’s the social centre of the entire peninsula.
Whisky Distilleries
The NC500 passes several distilleries, and a tour-and-tasting is one of the best ways to spend a rainy afternoon (of which there will be several).
Glenmorangie in Tain IG is the big one. Well-organised tours, excellent tasting rooms, and you can try limited editions you won’t find in shops. Even if you think you know Glenmorangie, the distillery visit changes your perspective.
Clynelish in Brora IG is a whisky enthusiast’s favourite. It produces a waxy, complex single malt that people travel specifically to buy. The visitor centre is welcoming and the tours are less crowded than the bigger names.
Old Pulteney in Wick IG makes a distinctly maritime whisky with a salty, coastal character that genuinely reflects where it’s made. One of the most northerly mainland distilleries in Scotland.
Wolfburn near Thurso is a newer operation but already building an excellent reputation. Small-batch production, passionate people, and a good tour.
Balblair near Invergordon is one of the oldest distilleries in Scotland. Slightly off the main NC500 route but worth the short detour if you’re into your whisky.
Not into whisky? Dunnet Bay Distillery IG near Thurso produces Rock Rose gin using locally foraged botanicals. The tours are good fun and the gin is genuinely excellent. It’s become one of the most popular craft gins in Scotland.
Fine Dining
For a special night, two places stand out.
The Torridon Hotel IG serves a tasting menu built around Highland ingredients: venison, shellfish, foraged herbs, all presented beautifully. It’s expensive, but for a one-off splurge in a spectacular location, it delivers.
The Albannach in Lochinver IG offers a daily-changing set menu that depends entirely on what’s fresh and available. Intimate, personal, and the kind of meal you’ll still be talking about months later.
Practical Stuff
A few things worth knowing before you plan your eating around the route:
- Check opening hours before you drive. Outside summer, many places close one or two days a week, even popular ones. Nothing worse than driving 40 minutes to a restaurant that’s shut on Tuesdays.
- Book dinner in advance. In small villages there may be literally one place serving food, and it’ll be full by 7pm in peak season.
- Carry snacks and water. Between Durness and Thurso there’s very little open. Same for some west coast stretches. A packed lunch from your B&B or a pie from Lochinver Larder solves this.
- Don’t skip the local shops. Village shops often stock local cheeses, smoked fish, and fresh bread that make for brilliant picnic supplies. Ullapool and Lochinver are particularly good for this.